SPEED

by Chuck Bailey

The Proper Reel Ratio affects the speed of a crankbaitThere’s no doubt about it: modern technology has enabled anglers to catch more fish.  We use depth-finders to locate the depth, structure, cover, and baitfish, (even the fish themselves if suspended).  We lower gauges into the water to check water temperatures.  A devise called a Color-C-Lector measures water clarity at a selected depth and then suggests what color will show up best on a submerged lure.  But, there isn’t a single technological device that can assist the angler in choosing how fast to retrieve a crankbait.  Too bad - because the right SPEED is an essential ingredient in triggering strikes.

Fact is, fish are often finicky and unpredictable.  They may be caught on a fast retrieve one day, but won’t touch the bait the next day until it is slowed down to a crawl.  Too often anglers think that just because they “tried” a crankbait and nothing happened – it’s time to try something else.  But before abandoning that crankbait, they would be wise to experiment with the retrieval speed.  Should you observe fish following your bait but not  striking, some fine-tuning is necessary; a change in speed may be the necessary modification leading to crankbait fishing success.

There is a general rule that suggests that in colder water, a slower retrieval speed is best, and in warm water faster retrieves are more natural and realistic.  The idea is that both prey and predator are less active in cold water, and more active in the summer months.  So water temperature should be a major consideration in selecting the lure speed.  The theory is this; a crankbait that duplicates that the activity level of the food supply has a greater chance of getting hit.

But if selecting the proper speed was that easy or simple, there wouldn’t be as much heated debate over it like there is today.  There are those who believe in “Speed Reeling” and there are those who think “slow, slow, slow” is the secret to consistently putting fish in the boat.  Let’s take a look at both sets of speed preferences and see if we can’t make some decisions based on the information shared. 

“SPEED REELING”

A fast retrieve with a crankbait generally produces better results than a slow one.  That’s the conclusion of some major pro bass tournament fishermen.  Anglers like Rick Clunn and Kevin Van Dam have been quoted as believing as the most effective retrieve with a crankbait is to reel absolutely as fast as you can turn the handle.  

The theory behind speed reeling is that it does not give the bass the chance to study it, forcing them to react out of impulse.  Like a cat who cannot help but pounce upon a fast moving toy that is rapidly pulled by them, the fish instinctively hits the crankbait as a reflex, even though they may not have been hungry at the time. 

We have already read that when a bait runs into and then bounces off a piece of cover (such as a branch, stump, rock, etc), the “deflection” is also a great triggering technique.  The sudden change in direction and speed imitates the erratic movement of natural prey trying to avoid being eaten.  The predatory fish instinctively pounces on the bait, afraid it will escape.  The logic of “speed reelers” is this: the faster a bait collides with cover, the greater the deflection, and the more likely a fish will react by striking it. 

When you consider the tremendous success that professional bass fishermen (like Rick Clunn and Kevin Van Dam) have experienced speed reeling, there is a tendency for beginners to grab a crankbait, a high speed reel, and burn that bait through their favorite lake until their wrists fall off.  But let’s broaden the picture a little.  The first thing to remember is that most of the bass tournaments take place in the warm months when fish are more active and willing to chase down a fast moving bait.

The next thing to remember is that a bass tournament gives participants a limited time to catch as large a limit as possible.  Time is precious, and to be competitive it is essential to locate active bass.  Remember, not all fish are active at the same time.  Long casts and speed reeling with a crankbait permits an angler to cover as large an area as possible in the limited time available, placing the bait in front of those specific fish that are active, thereby increasing the number of strikes.  (And there will be times when a few inactive fish will respond with a “reflex strike” because of the speed).  Speed reeling is the result of playing the percentages.  Speed reeling might be used to cover huge stretches of shoreline, or vast mud flats, or acres of grass.  In the right conditions, it’s a tiring but highly successful technique.

But reflect on this:  if it was the best technique for all lakes in all conditions, why do professional super stars who excel at speed reeling also win tournaments using jigs, tubes, worms, grubs, and other various baits and techniques?   Fact is, speed reeling works when all the conditions are just right. 

And those ideal conditions generally begin with clear, or nearly clear, water.  For the most part, it is a presentation based on a fish’s ability to visually locate the fish.  In muddy water conditions, the fish have limited visibility and any swift moving crankbait inevitably passes by before the fish was able to hone in on it and react.  (A slower moving, brightly colored, noisy crankbait with rattles is best for murky water, giving the fish more time to use its other senses to locate and blast the imitation prey).  Speed reeling depends primarily on visual location, and therefore excels in clearer conditions.

Lipless Crankbait often used for speed reelingWhen the bass pros are speed reeling, they generally do so in warm water.  The technique’s efficiency decreases dramatically when the water’s temperature reaches either extremes: when the water is very, very cold, or very, very hot.  In both cases fish tend to be so inactive that speed reeling is handicapped dramatically. 

Now note: there are some species that are much less affected by cold water conditions.  Smallmouth bass and trout tend to continue to do well in colder water conditions as long as food is available.  It’s true that food digestion slows down, so they may not have to eat as often, but when hunger does kick in, an angler cannot reel a crankbait so fast as to take it away from a fish who has set its mind upon it.  (Example:  I fish an Original Floating Rapala on a 3-way rig in deep water during the winter for smallies, and I run my bait at a speed that shocks any first-timers that accompany me.  But again, I am covering acres and acres of water to pick up the few fish that are active.)  So, even in winter time, some species are quite capable of moving fast to capture prey – making speed reeling still an option. 

In the right conditions, speed reeling is highly successful.  Ask any southern bass angler who has thrown rattlebaits across the top of submerged grass flats about speed reeling,  and watch their eyes light up.  But, as successful as speed reeling can be, it is not the only theory concerning speed in relation to crankbaits.

 

SLOW, SLOW, SLOW!

John Herrick was once interviewed in an IN-FISHERMAN article, and fearlessly attacked the idea that fast is the only proper way to catch fish.  He proclaimed clearly and with great confidence that no matter what the time of year, a slow presentation usually produces more and bigger bass.  He states that “Mister Fast Cast” may cover more water, but an angler that retrieves a crankbait slowly, even in mid-summer, usually catches more bass in a day’s fishing.  Many a fisherman has tried to prove John wrong over the years, only to be humbled at the end of the day when his numbers and weight was added up.

One of the main reasons given for John’s success is this:  a slow wobbling crankbait stays in the strike zone longer, increasing the chances a fish will strike.  Wounded bait fish move erratically, but not like speeding bullets.  That’s why he prefers a slow stop-n-go retrieve, to give the impression of a wounded minnow or shad.  An inactive fish may not want to expend tremendous energy to chase down a fast moving bait, but if a wounded minnow or shad wanders into its limited strike zone and just hangs there for a while – the temptation of an easy meal is too much for them.  They eat it.

Wide-wobbling crankbaits are often retrieved slowlyNew Hampshire’s Rick Lillegard recognizes that there are times of the year when slow wobbling cranks crawled through cover is absolutely deadly.  In an article written by Mark Hicks, Rick admits that he rarely cranks wide-wobbling crankbaits at a fast clip.  He believes slow-to-medium retrieves allow the mesmerizing side-to-side ACTION to work its magic in the strike zone just that much longer. 

Lillegard is quoted as saying “Crank too fast, and you pull wide-wobbling crankbaits out of the action they were designed for.  That’s the beauty of these lures.  I think bass see them as a crayfish digging bottom.” He goes on to explain the success of slow retrieves, “When the water heats up in the summertime, fish get sluggish and swim with a lazy wobble.  Bass think a wide-wobbling crankbait is a big shad or a big bream.  A wide wobble looks natural to them at that time.”  Enough said.

 

SO… FAST OR SLOW?

It’s tempting at first to believe that these pros are at odds with one another (the “speed reelers” verses “slow mo” fans),  but they’re not.  They both admit that there are times and conditions when their favorite speed technique does not work as effectively.  What sets these anglers apart, however, is the CONFIDENCE they each have for their preferred crankbait retrieve speeds.  Even when the conditions are marginal, that “confidence” is still going to pay off.  But when their preferred conditions have melted away entirely, these wise anglers will switch to whatever techniques and speeds are going to get the job done.

The truth is, only the fish themselves know which speed is preferable.  So a beginner must experiment, varying their speed and retrieve during the day until a pattern is established.  Start with a medium retrieve and expand out in both directions from there.  If you come across “fishy looking” water, trust your instinct, and cast through that area as a “speed reeler” would.  And then fish it again as “slow” as you can while still keeping a gentle wobble going.  Try something in between.  The key is to let the fish tell you which retrieve speed is the preferred one for that moment in time.

There is one thing that both “speed reelers” and “slow mo” proponents can agree upon, (whether a retrieve is fast or slow), more strikes occur when there is a change or deviation in the retrieve.

SPEED CHANGE

After recognizing a predator’s intent to devoir it, the frightened prey rarely runs in a straight line at steady pace.  It darts and dashes erratically, changing speed and direction until it is safe, or gets eaten.  Any crankbait that hopes to imitate natural prey will require changes in its direction and speed.  Mike Iaconelli, (pro bass tournament fisherman), says that changing speeds is his number one method of triggering strikes.

Even “speed reelers” give jerks and pops to the rod tip while they reel, causing erratic behavior in the crankbait.  And several times during the retrieve, they may even pause for a brief moment.  Any fish that is following closely behind, observing but uncommitted, is surprised when the crank suddenly stops.  Startled, with the bait up in its face, it will instinctively lash at it.  Likewise, when a fast moving crankbait collides off a stump, branch, or rock – it erratically deflects to one side or the other.  Any speed change, even during a fast retrieve, triggers more strikes.

Any “slow mo” angler intentionally meandering a wide wobbling crankbait through the branches of a lay-down tree, will inevitably have the lip stall on a branch.  As slack is given to the line, a floating crankbait rises until the angler is sure it has cleared, then a short burst of speed is applied, (imitating an attempt to flee).  This velocity variation often elicits a vicious strike.  Any speed change, even during a slow retrieve, triggers more strikes.

Let’s summarize the last two paragraphs:  whether your crankbait retrieve is fast, slow, or somewhere in between – any direction or speed change, will trigger more strikes.

 

SPEED’S IMPACT ON DEPTH

The authors of the “Precision Casting” guide, (Dr. Steven Holt and Mark Romanack), did extensive research on the factors that affect the running depth of crankbaits.  Their conclusion:  Retrieve speed has a negligible impact on a crankbait's depth.  “We could demonstrate no significant difference in maximum running depths with different retrieval speeds,” says Romanack. "It seems that any increased diving forces on the lure associated with increased speed are offset by equally increasing upward forces of line resistance or drag."

It may be true that “increasing” the speed of a crankbait will not increase its running depth, but decreasing the speed of a floating crankbait will eventually decrease the running depth.  You can actually get a crankbait (say, one that runs at 10 feet on a steady medium retrieve) to run at half its normal depth, even less, if you reel slow enough with a few pauses. 

 

TROLLING

Proper Speed is essential when trolling crankbaitsNo anglers are as sensitive to the impact “speed” has on catching fish than those dedicated to trolling.   GPS is used by many modern trollers, not only to hone in on locations, but to accurately reveal the speed of the boat.  Knowing the speed of the boat relays vital information to the informed angler as to what their bait is doing in terms of vibration and movement. 

Basically, every crankbait has a “minimum” and “maximum” speed limitation.  Too slow, and the bait rises up or fails to wobble correctly.  Too much speed can cause the water turbulence to build up around the bill and body so as to cause it to lose its ability to track straight.  When the maximum speed is exceeded, many cranks begin to spin or loop under water.  Others pop to the surface and skim on top. 

The best way to determine the minimum and maximum speed limits of a crankbait is to place the crankbait in the water beside the boat and slowly increase the trolling speed, observing its extreme limits as well as noting it’s most natural and alluring action.  Recording that data for each crankbait style and size will provide a ready resource that will maximize a fisherman’s success.

Trollers also understand how the path of the boat affects the speed of the baits being towed behind.  Any turn will cause the rods extended on one side of the boat to speed up while those on the other side will slow down.  Zigzagging is intentionally utilized by the angler when covering a large flat or expanse of open water.  As each strike occurs, special attention is paid to what side of the boat it took place on, and whether the lure was slowing down or speeding up.  That helps the angler zoom in on the optimum speed.

Determining and generating the correct amount of speed with crankbaits is absolutely vital when trolling.  (See ABC’s of CRANKBAITS “TROLLING” for more detailed information)

 

THE REEL’S IMPACT ON SPEED

Reels generally come in four common gear ratios: 3 to 1, 4.5 to 1, 5.1 to 1, and 6.1 to 1.  (Slow to fast).  Reel selection is a highly debated topic, with some expert anglers preferring the slower 3:1 reels to insure a slow retrieve.  Others looking to “crank and burn” seek the faster 6.1:1.  Those preferring the higher geared reels use this logic; they can always slow the reel handle down when using a faster geared reel, but it’s much harder to “speed crank” a lower geared reel when acceleration is desired.  With experts debating over the advantage of each reel, you can see why some anglers throw up their hands and chose a 4.5:1 or a 5.1:1 reel as a compromise.

What reel should a crankbait fisherman choose?  This decision depends primarily on an individual’s natural reeling pace or rhythm when it comes to cranking.  Let me explain.  Ask all the members in your fishing club to close their eyes, and use their hands to retrieve an imaginary reel at a medium steady retrieve.  As an observer, you will see a great deal of variety in their hand speeds.  No two are exactly alike.  Take the fastest and slowest reelers of the group, and hand them the same 4.5:1 reels, and it will become obvious their baits will arrive back at the boat at very different times using their natural and most comfortable retrieve. 

If the goal is to get both anglers to retrieve the baits at a specific speed, the slowest reeler may want to move up to a higher gear ratio, or the fastest reeler may want to gear down.  It’s not that both anglers couldn’t discipline themselves to speed up or slow down their natural retrieve, but why work so hard?  Turning the handle at an unnatural reeling pace or rhythm all day is difficult to do.  Not impossible, but requiring extra concentration and effort.

For instance; anyone burning a rattlebait (lipless crankbait) over submerged grass fields all day will desire to produce a fast retrieve.  On the other hand, casting a meandering wide-wobbling crank through brush or cover will require a slow retrieve.  Whether you need to “speed reel” or go “slow mo”, the desired speed requirements of a specific crankbait should influence the gear ratio of the reel selected.  And even then, that choice of gear ratios will vary from angler to angler, having been influenced by an individual’s own natural reeling pace or rhythm. 

Before you purchase a reel based on someone else’s recommendation and preference, borrow a few with different gear-ratios.  Experiment to see which reel best suites 1) the crankbait technique you are trying to duplicate, and 2) your own natural reeling pace or rhythm.

(For more detailed information on reels, see “ABC’s of CRANKBAITS: REELS”)

 

SUMMARY

1)  The right SPEED is an essential ingredient in triggering strikes.

2)  Water temperature should be a major consideration in selecting lure speed. Generally, in colder water a slower retrieve speed is best.  In warm water, faster retrieves are more natural and realistic.  A crankbait that duplicates the activity level of the food supply has a greater chance of getting hit.

3)  “SPEED REELING” is a technique used by anglers who confidently believe that the most effective crankbait retrieve is the end result of reeling as fast as the angler can turn the handle.  Speed reeling excels in warm clear water.

4)  “SLOW-MO REELING”  is a technique used by anglers who confidently believe that, no matter what time of the year it is, a slow presentation usually produces more and bigger fish.   It usually utilizes slow wobbling crankbaits that stay in the strike zone longer, increasing the chances a fish will strike. 

5)  On any given day, only the fish themselves know which speed is preferable.  So an angler must experiment, varying their speed and retrieve during the day until a pattern is established.

6)  Whether your retrieve is fast, slow, or somewhere in between – any change in its direction or speed, will trigger more strikes.

7)  “Increasing” the speed of a crankbait will not increase its running depth, but decreasing the speed of a floating crankbait will eventually decrease the running depth

8)  Determining and using the correct speed for your crankbaits is absolutely vital when trolling.

9)  Whether you need to “speed reel”, go “slow mo”, or retrieve at a moderate velocity somewhere in the middle;  the speed required for that specific crankbait technique should influence the gear ratio of the reel you select.  And even then, that choice of gear ratios will vary from angler to angler, having been influenced by an individual’s own natural reeling pace or rhythm. 

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