SIZE
by Chuck Bailey
WHAT SIZE A FISH WANTS TO EAT
A discussion on crankbait SIZE clearly demonstrates that “nothing is clean cut in fishing.” Every rule or generality has exceptions and every angling theory has professional experts debating contrasting opinions. Sometimes the most that our accumulated angling knowledge can offer, is the reduction of possibilities – so that the “mystery” in fishing is lessened, but never eliminated.
There are days when it makes no difference as to what size an angler throws; the fish will aggressively smash any offering. But when a fisherman experiences results that are less than satisfactory, and it’s time to “fine-tune” your presentation, there are two size options: SCALE UP or DOWN SIZE. If your time on the water is limited, (such as in a tournament), the wrong size adjustment can be a wasteful and unproductive choice. That’s why it is helpful to recognize and understand some of the major “factors” that influence an angler’s decision to go larger or smaller in their crankbait presentation.
It would be nice if the subtitle, “What Size A Bass Wants To Eat”, depicted a clear “answer” rather than the “challenge” facing anglers. What a bass or any other fish wants in terms of “meal size” is a secret that fish instinctively know and anglers must discover. Unfortunately this “secret” changes with the conditions of its environment.
MATCH THE HATCH
Never-the-less, an angler arriving at a lake needs a place to start. An excellent question to ask is “What size forage have the fish been eating lately?” The logic is that if you know whether they are eating small minnows or large gizzard shad, then imitating that food source and size in your crankbait selection increases your chances of triggering strikes. The standard suggestion is to duplicate the prevalent forage fish, or “match the hatch”. For example, if largemouths are causing 2 inch shad to break water – start with a 2 inch crankbait that imitates the shad.
Of course, the suggestion to “match the hatch” requires an angler to know something about the forage unique to the body of water they are fishing at that time of year. (The water isn’t always clear enough to see the forage, and they don’t always break the surface). But a little homework on the internet can reveal some “forage fish” data that can give an angler a true edge.
At seminars, professional bass fisherman George Cochran, reminds his audience that matching lure size to the prevalent size of baitfish is important. And he gives the example of the threadfin shad, (a popular forage fish in large reservoirs across the country). In the spring the young threadfin shad are 1 ½ to 2 ½ inches long, but that in fall they typically reach 3-4 inches. This knowledge can be helpful in choosing your initial crankbait size depending on what time of the year you are fishing.
I’M SO CONFUSED!
But sometimes the forage fish data accumulated can actually confuse an angler. For instance, if a smallmouth angler’s home water is 26,000 acre Lake Washington, near Seattle, a little research might reveal that “shad” do not exist in any of the waters in Western Washington. What this lake does have is the smaller “stickle back minnow”, and the bottom dwelling sculpin. When the perch are small, they’re on the menu. (Bluegills are rare on this lake) And… during certain times of the year, “salmon smolt” come down the rivers (primarily May through July) and travel through the lake on their migration towards the Pacific Ocean. The lake is also home to “longfin smelt” that have a two year life cycle. They typically spawn in February-March and begin to look very tasty to bass around the fall of the year. But until that time of year they are larval, small, and really translucent. As winter approaches they are now bigger, more colorful, and easier for bass to see.
The interesting part is that, for unknown reasons, longfin smelt abundance is cyclical in Lake Washington. During even years, there is a stronger class of spawning smelt. That means that in the autumn of even years there are a lot more smelt than during odd years, sometimes as much as 10 times more. They are large enough that only the bigger smallmouth can swallow them. So every other year in the fall, the big boys gorge themselves, often ignoring a fisherman’s smaller offering, while the “dings” (unable to eat the larger smelt) swarm all over the angler’s finesse baits. “What happened to the larger fish?” is the typical question confused local anglers ask. Without this forage data, the puzzle is rarely put together.
But is fishing really that much easier with a stack of biologist’s reports in our hands? If there is only one forage available – maybe. But there are not many Lake Washington fishermen who can take the combined knowledge about “stickle back minnows”, perch, sculpins, salmon smolt migrations, and the cyclical life cycles of longfinned smelt, and design a chart that takes the mystery out of crankbait size selection. Besides, did anyone ask what the crawfish were doing during all this? (Another competing delicacy for smallmouth). Or what happens when that same Seattle angler travels east over the mountains to fish another body of water where these many forage fish aren’t?
Unless you are a tournament angler with a biology background, you’ll find it might just be easier to just experiment with crankbait size until the fish tell you what they want. Of course, there are other less complicated factors that might provide some clues as to whether you should down size or go big.
SEASONAL EFFECTS
As we began to realize in the previous discussions – forage naturally grows larger during the year. But it is important to remember that small fry from this year's spawn don't become eating size until early summer.
So early in the year, the only food on the menu is the forage that made it through the winter, now a year old. So using larger crankbaits is important right through to early summer. Too many anglers start throwing little crankbaits prematurely.
Only when the fry from this year's spawn have grown to be a couple of inches long, will the fish switch to food that is easier to swallow. (That doesn't mean larger baits won't work, it's just that they have choices now and smaller is easier to consume.)
Naturally, anglers should begin fishing the early summer with smaller offerings, increasing the size of their crankbaits as fall approaches. A 3-4 inch crank in June may be replaced by a 7 incher in September. If forage size could be graphed, it would be an "inverse bell curve": starting large, dropping to small, and growing back to large again throughout the year.
Naturally, the growing season in the south is longer than in the north – a result of southern waters being closer to the equator and the first to warm up and the last to cool down. Because fish activity is connected to water temperature, the forage growth will fluctuate depending on its location geographically. A certain species of shad up north may only grow 2-3 inches from early summer to fall, while its southern cousin may grow an additional inch or two. Anglers who travel should keep this in mind and adjust crankbait size accordingly to the seasonal effects unique to their location.
Generally, fish larger cranks in the early part of the year, smaller cranks in the early summer, and their larger counterparts in the fall.
WATER TEMPERATURE
Connected to seasonal effects is water temperature. The predominate theory is that fish, (being cold blooded), are less active or aggressive in cold water. Obviously fish still have to eat in the colder months. And while the digestion of food takes longer and eating is slowed down during winter, there is always a percentage of the fish ready to take advantage of an opportunity to chow down. But since their forage is less aggressive and smaller, a crankbait should be smaller and fished less erratically so as not to alarm or spook the fish.
As the water warms, so do the fish, and larger cranks retrieved faster and more erratically are more apt to elicit strikes. This is not to imply that fish will not take smaller baits in warm water, but to point out that smaller baits are preferred in colder water. This is not just true in the spring but later in the fall when water temperature drops suddenly. Occasional cold-front rainwater can also flow down streams and pour into lakes, creating a sudden drop in temperature in isolated areas of a reservoir. Once again, the angler may find it necessary to downsize.
Generally, smaller baits are preferred in cold water, and larger baits in warmer water.
WATER CLARITY
The same weather conditions that can cause a change in water temperature can also cause a change in water clarity. Strong rains often create muddy conditions and visibility drops. The previous aggressive bite will tend to turn off. If the new water is muddy and cold, some crankbait addicts just go home. Cold low-visibility conditions are not the crankbait’s greatest strength, and other slower vertical techniques may be preferred. But if the water is muddy and warm, a larger body shape makes the crankbait more visible. Throwing bigger baits in bright colors, slowed down, and with rattles can be just the ticket in stained or muddy conditions.
Most of the fish caught on crankbaits tend to use “sight” as their primary tool to hone in on dinner. While sound and vibration help in murky or stained conditions, fish like bass and walleye still prefer to see the bait before they strike it. Which might initially cause novices to think “clear water” would be the ideal conditions to fish cranks. For the most part this is true, but some caution must be attached to fishing crystal clear water.
Because the fish see the crankbait coming from further away in clear water, they have an increased amount of time to check it out. These finned predators instinctively study its shape, speed, vibration, color, and presentation looking for clues as to whether this is something edible. Obviously the details on large bulky baits are easier to dissect, often revealing clues that something doesn’t look natural. This makes smaller crankbaits the preferred choice in clear water. The inability to see the details of a smaller bait means a predator has less negative clues available, often eliciting a reaction bite before the potential meal can escape. Sometimes, when a fish isn’t sure about a smaller object racing through clear water, the only option is to taste it.
While exceptions exist, (what else is new), it is a good rule of thumb to use larger baits when visibility is decreased, and smaller baits when water is clear.
LIGHT CONDITIONS - DAY VERSES NIGHT
As mentioned, bass, walleye, and many other species of fish are visual feeders. And yes, even at night bass are visual creatures, seeing far better in low light conditions than we do. Depending on which research you focus on, scientists claim fish can see 3 to 5 times better than we do under water. Still, at night details fade, and sound and vibration plays a greater role than during the day. Larger baits displace more water and make more noise. In low light conditions, and at night, bigger cranks hold the advantage.
Just as muddy conditions create low visibility situations that require larger, noisier crankbaits, night time conditions lend themselves to similar adjustments in size. A huge crankbait that might scare fish during the day, may actually turn them on at night. Generally, a fisherman can increase crankbait size while night fishing.
MISCELLANEOUS FACTORS
Fish Aggressiveness: The aggressiveness of fish also affects the size of a bait. For instance, in a school of smaller predators, (for instance: a group of smallmouth), competition among the members is often pretty intense, especially if food is scarce. Their activity zone (strike zone) is larger and they will aggressively travel up, down, or sideways in the water column to snatch a meal before someone else in the crowd sees it and gets there first. Larger, noisier crankbaits work best in these competitive situations.
Lake Size: The size of the body of water you are fishing also affects the size of bait selected. While exceptions galore exist, generally smaller baits are used on small ponds. The pond tends to be shallower, and the fish more skittish. While there is an occasional large fish in small ponds, the majority tend to be smaller because food and competition reduce growth. Larger reservoirs have a greater chance of having a greater population of larger fish, so bigger baits are more effective.
Fishing pressure: when a fish has never seen a crankbait before, it is more likely to hit it regardless of size. Larger baits do not tend to spook it. But when the lake is heavily pressured, and catch and release is a common experience, the most effective lures are smaller and less intimidating. Face it; the fish see far fewer tiny baits than standard-sized cranks.
Food supply: Some lakes are infertile and the food supply is scarce, making the fish there perpetually hungry and generally aggressive. They can’t be picky – and even small fish will strike large lures. Where food is plentiful – they tend to be selective, and smaller baits are less intimidating.
Cold Fronts: Just before a cold front arrives, fish get aggressive and start feeding up. It should not come as surprise then that larger baits will work well. When the front arrives, the fish’s activity comes almost to a halt. Use smaller baits presented slowly that are less intimidating. But as the front moves away, you can increase the size of the crankbait again.
Depth: The deeper the fish are, the less light. Remember what we have learned about low visibility? Larger crankbaits work well. So the deeper the fish, the greater the possibility of using larger baits to attract fish? Well, that depends – if the fish species you are targeting usually feed near the surface, then the fish on the bottom are usually less aggressive. Smaller baits work best on less active fish.
On the other hand, if the fish species targeted tends to hunt closer to the bottom (and are inactive when suspended high in the water column), the active members in deeper water will see a bigger bait better from further away in low light conditions – this increases your chance of hooking up. It’s not black and white, but generally knowledge of the targeted species in conjunction with depth will help you select crankbait size.
Mouth Size: This would seem obvious: the size of a fish’s mouth determines the maximum size of they prey they can swallow. The tinier mouth of the crappie or blue gill means they will not be eating the 3-4 inch shad that largemouth bass consume regularly. The researchers at InFisherman magazine once reported that bass occasionally eat fish that are about 60% of their length. But bass typically eat prey that fall between 10% to 50% of the bass’ length. 20% to 45% are the most typical sizes. So… this implies that in order to take bass, select baits that are about 20% to 45% as long as the fish you seek. Is it that simple?
No. Another InFisherman article reported a study by Jim Kurtenbach’s research group suggesting that some fish may not be able to tell how big prey are. The bass they studied repeatedly chased, attacked, and choked on prey too large to swallow. If they think they can catch it, they try to eat it. Apparently hungry bass attack almost anything they think they can catch without regard for whether the prey can be eaten after it is caught. In some species, then, their aggressive attitude is bigger than their mouth! This makes mouth size a minor, rather than a major factor in choosing bait size.
SO NOW WHAT?
Do we have all we need now to choose crankbait sizes in all situations? Hardly. What stimulates a fish to strike is a complex topic. So let’s check out some size related topics that have created some controversy over the years. Let’s start with this one…
BIG BAITS CATCH BIG FISH!
Some call it an important truth, others declare it a myth. Do big baits catch big fish? Yes! …and no! There is no doubt that trophy largemouth bass are going to have no trouble eating a big bait. The size of their mouth allows it. In the Stick Marshes” of Florida, anglers hunting big bass will use large live shad that would fill a frying pan by themselves. In California, the giant bass swimming in deep reservoirs eat 8-10 inch trout without difficulty.
Recently a number of companies on the west coast are now producing huge swimbaits that require special rods and reels to throw. Who has not heard stories of large bass eating 2 foot snakes, baby ducks, small muskrats, etc…? The fact is, when presented properly, 10 pound and larger bass are being caught on large oversized crankbaits. So yes, big bass DO eat big cranks, but mainly because they can!
However, this declaration that “big baits catch big fish” implies that big fish cannot be caught by smaller baits. Not true. Big bass and other fish have fed on tiny minnows all their lives. And, they are opportunists. When aggressive and hungry, it’s obvious that a big meal is going to hit the spot. But a tasty snack is sucked in just as readily. The long lasting world record largemouth, (recently tied in 2009), was not taken on an oversized monster bait – it was caught by an angler using regular tackle. The fact is, small baits will catch more fish, all sizes of fish, …and that includes lunkers.
Most anglers are not fishing for trophies only. Even in tournaments, it is a common strategy to find a limit of “keepers” first before trying to target monsters. The baits initially used are not oversized. Why? Smaller baits have the potential to catch the most fish, ranging from small to large. Once a limit is caught, a larger bait will get less hits, but when it does, it generally catches larger fish.
Now notice, this theory says that generally a bigger bait will catch bigger fish. Fact is, bigger baits will also attract smaller fish. Anglers have caught bass that attacked a bait as large as they were. What were these fish thinking? There is no easy explanation. We can just be glad that species like bass don’t grow as large as sharks, or we couldn’t go near the water!
So let’s summarize using bass as an example:
1) Big bass eat big baits… because they can!
2) Big bass also eat smaller crankbaits.
3) Greater numbers of bass will be caught on smaller cranks!
4) Small bass will also attack large baits.
5) Smaller crankbaits catch fish of all sizes!
WHEN FISHING GETS SLOW? DOWNSIZE!
When the fish get lock-jawed, and the crankbait which produced yesterday doesn’t even get a bump today, a change in presentation is called for. Often anglers change depth, color, and speed but when that doesn’t work, they put the crankbait rod down and pick up something else. This could be a mistake if they have not first tried “downsizing!”
Often parents who take their children fishing will downsize their baits because “keeping them busy” is the focus. They know that smaller baits will catch more fish during the day therefore provide more entertainment for the young ones. But when junior unexpectedly brings in a larger fish, the parent needs to pay attention! As we have stated earlier: When active, small baits catch large fish.
However, it’s when fish are not active that the smaller baits really begin to shine. Fact is, a small (1/8 to ¼ oz.) shallow-running suspending crankbait is far less intimidating. Why? They tend to give off fewer negative clues. A fish perceives less that is unnatural, because there are fewer details to see.
For instance, when slowly reeled to the boat, (using a stop-n-go retrieve), a small bait can be a great way to catch bass outside of weed lines. A slow-rising, square-nosed shad bait, methodically woven through submerged limbs or a stump field, can often accomplish what large lures can’t – getting lethargic largemouth to commit as a result of the angler’s gentler “deflection” presentation. When a big bait spooks fish, especially in the shallows, think light, and small. You may come back with a limit when others zero.
SUMMARY:
Remember, exceptions exist for every statement made concerning crankbait “SIZE”, but for the most part…
1) Whenever possible, “match the hatch”. That is, choose the size of a crankbait by the size of the prey being consumed at the present time in a specific body of water.
2) Prey grows throughout the year, so… generally, fish large cranks early on, smaller cranks in the early summer, and their larger counterparts in the fall.
3) Generally, smaller baits are preferred in cold water, and larger baits in warmer water.
4) It is a good rule of thumb to use larger baits when visibility (water clarity) is decreased, and smaller baits when water is clear.
5) A fisherman can increase crankbait size while night fishing.
6) When fish are aggressive larger crankbaits work well, when inactive, smaller crankbaits are less intimidating.
7) Generally smaller baits are used on small ponds, while on larger bodies of water bigger crankbaits are more effective.
8) When fishing infertile lakes where bait is scarce, fish can’t be picky and even small fish will strike large lures. Where food is plentiful, fish tend to be selective, and smaller baits are less intimidating.
9) Before a cold front arrives, fish get aggressive and start feeding up, so larger baits will work well. When the front arrives, fish activity decreases and smaller baits presented slowly are less intimidating. But as the front moves away, you can increase the size of the crankbait again.
10) When fish are in deep water and feeding aggressively, larger baits work well in the lower light conditions.
11) Consider the targeted fish’s mouth size, and select baits that are about 20% to 45% as long as the fish you seek. But remember, some species will at times attack prey too large to swallow.
12) Remember: when it comes to the theory that “it takes big baits to catch big fish”…
a) Big fish eat big baits… because they can!
b) Big fish also eat smaller crankbaits.
c) Greater numbers of fish will be caught on smaller cranks!
d) Small fish will also attack large baits.
e) Smaller crankbaits catch fish of all sizes!
Fact is: Big fish can be caught on all SIZES of baits, and so can small ones
13) When fishing slows down – downsize!
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