LOSING FISH!
The line screams! Your rod is bent over! The adrenalin is flowing! “Big one!” you yell to your partner. And then… the pressure is suddenly missing. It takes a few seconds of futile reeling for the horrible truth to sink in. The lunker fish is gone! As your heart sinks and your stomach begins to feel nauseous, your brain keeps asking over and over again, “What happened?”
When a fish is lost, a careful analysis requires a fisherman to recognize the obvious; somewhere between the fish and the angler, (actually including the angler), there is a weak link in the chain, so to speak. Rarely is it just “plain bad luck”. From equipment to technique, there are adjustments that can be made to reduce, (though never eliminate), the number of lost fish.
The Hook Set
Let’s start with the fisherman’s technique. Unlike jig or plastic worm fishing, there is no need to cross the eyes of fish with a hard hook set when fishing crankbaits. Because “soft plastics” or “jig” fishermen often pitch or flip into brush, trees, weeds, lily pads, or stump fields, they usually rig their baits to be weedless. Sensing a fish on the other end, however, means a snag-proof bait is no longer desired. Many anglers are taught to rear back, snapping the rod into their chest in order to bend down the weed guards that protect the jig hook, or… drive a heavy worm hook through the thick plastic in which the barbed point was hidden. The idea is to use lightening quick reflexes and explosive power to expose and then drive the hooks into the fish’s bony mouth before it can spit it out.
Crankbaits, however, do not require the same snapping hook-set. Equipped with several treble hooks that are fully exposed, an angler has only to slowly sweep the rod up or to the side to set the hook. If the hooks are sharp they will manage to pierce the mouth on their own as pressure is steadily applied. Many anglers force themselves to wait until they “feel the fish” before doing this.
Why pause or delay on the hook set? Fisherman who lose a lot of fish on cranks would benefit by moving past their frustration and checking the hooking location on the fish that they DO manage to bring in. If the treble is dangerously near the edge of the lip, this indicates the bait is not getting far enough back into the mouth cavity before the angler is setting the hook. Sensing the fish and reacting immediately means the fisherman is inadvertantly ripping the bait out of the fish’s mouth. A brief pause or delay allows the fish take the bait in. Waiting until the fish is swimming away, increases the angler’s hooking percentages. So… wait, feel the fish, slowly sweep the rod up or to the side. The proper hook setting technique can make all the difference.
Jumping Fish
There is nothing more beautiful or exciting than to see a trophy fish leaping, spraying water, and plunging back into the depth. However, experienced fishermen also are painfully aware that there is a great possibility that a trophy fish will re-enter the water without the crankbait in its mouth. Professional fishermen actually shudder when they see their line heading for the surface. Tournaments are won or lost because of “the one that jumped and got a way”.
Underwater, a crankbait is rarely “flung” loose. The thick viscosity of the water takes away some of the fish’s leverage as it shakes its head. But after that same fish clears the surface, the thinner air does little to slow the bait from being snapped back and forth by violent head shakes, and the bait is often hurled into outer space.
The only way to prevent “air ejection” is to stop the fish from jumping. Which is easier said than done. When your line indicates a fish is heading to the surface, experienced anglers will attempt to do two things: first, 1) plunge their rod into the water to change the angle of the line. A telescopic rod that would magically extend to 20 feet below the fish, pulling the fish down and stopping its ascent, would be ideal. But alas, it does not exist, and so anglers do what they can. Even putting the rod tip a couple of feet below the surface can help. (As we will later discover, longer rods have an advantage here).
The second thing experienced anglers do to stop the fish from jumping is 2) exert force, trying to turn the fish’s head sideways and towards the boat, and hopefully changing the upward direction. The success of plunging the rod and turning the fish’s head is directly proportionate to the distance the fish is from the boat. The more line that is out, the less control the angler can exert over the fish, and the less likely the fish can be stopped from breaking the surface. The closer the fish is to the boat, the more pressure a fishermen can apply, and the greater the chance of preventing liftoff. This is an easy theory to understand, a difficult feat to carry out.
There is much debate about what a fisherman should do when a fish does go air born. Some say “give it line” and others suggest “take away the slack”. To the best of our knowledge, there is no scientific proof that one or the other works best. As one master caster once said, “All you can do is hold your breath and pray.”
If you are feeling that the fish seems to have the advantage here, you are correct. Even the most seasoned professionals lose fish when they jump. At most, the wise fisherman can reduce the number of lost fish through “plunge rod tip, and turn their head” techniques. But they will never be able to eliminate it. And that is why we call it “fishing”, not “catching.”
A ‘Giving’ Rod
Now let’s move on to the rod in the fisherman’s hands. Choosing the right rod is essential. Generally, a crankbait rod has a good backbone lower down, with plenty of flex in the midsection, and a limber tip; basically a softer overall action. Why is this important?
The length and action of a rod act as a shock absorber when a bass, walleye or other game fish strikes. A stiff or fast reacting rod can actually pull the bait away from a fish before the hook penetrates, or cause it to be lightly hooked in the lip. A softer rod gives the fish more time to swallow the bait and reduces the likelihood of their shaking the hooks loose. (Rarely will a freshwater angler choose more than a medium action rod). A softer rod gives the fish more time to let the crankbait do it’s magic.
Obviously length is a factor here. Longer rods have more shock absorption abilities than shorter rods. This can make a tremendous difference when a fish makes one more lunge for the bottom near the boat. And as mentioned earlier, the advantage of a longer rod is also made clear when the rod tip is plunged deeper into the water to stop a fish from jumping. However, certain techniques used when fishing a jerk bait, for instance, (the rod is held low and snapped towards the water to make the bait jump to the side), prevents the use of long rods. So some techniques have inherent limitations built in. Still, when possible use longer, softer rods to reduce the number of lost fish.
If the hooks on a crankbait are sharp but the angler keeps losing fish, chances are his rod is too stiff. Rod flexibility works to prevent the weight of the crankbait from being tossed, and the hooks being ripped loose during a fish’s “power surge”. This is why many anglers choose fiberglass rods because of their exceptional ability to absorb the shock of a sudden surge. (For more on the controversy of fiberglass verses graphite rods, see ABC’s of Crankbaits – RODS).
Back Reeling/Thumb Dragging
If an angler is using a spinning reel, some experts claim they can provide more “give” to their crankbait presentation by learning to “back-reel.” There is a switch on every spinning reel that, when switched in one direction, allows the retrieve arm to be turned forward only, taking up line. If that switch is reversed, the retrieve arm is permitted to turn in both directions. Line can be taken up or let out – depending on which way the angler turns the crank handle.
Many fishermen using spinning reels prefer to play their fish with the switch open. That way, should a scrappy smallmouth suddenly head for the bottom, the fisherman can “back reel” – permitting the fish to take line (as controlled by the angler). Other expert anglers point out that a quality drag that has been set properly will accomplish the same results. This becomes a matter of personal choice.
Those using a baitcaster cannot “back-reel”. Once the handle is turned, the spool is engaged to the gears which can only turn in one direction – taking line in. But a few experienced old-timers, (especially when over deeper water), will bring a strong fish a certain distance to the boat and then pause to let the fish play itself out. During this “wear out session” some anglers have learned to disengage the gears by pushing in the free spool button, (cast button), after having applied strong pressure with their thumb to the line spool. They keep this up while letting the fish tire. Should the fish make a strong and sudden lunge for the bottom, the angler eases up slightly on their thumb pressure, using it as a human drag system until the fish has stopped its run and can again be reeled in.
Back in the day when drags rarely worked, “thumb-draggers” learned to trust their thumbs over the mechanics of their baitcasters. Today’s reels are far superior and it is a rare fisherman whose thumb is more sensitive than the modern mechanical drag. Besides, beginners often make the mistake, (when attempting to thumb-drag), of taking off too much thumb pressure and the spool suddenly unwinds at an incredible speed, burning thumbs, and/or resulting in bird’s nets. Learning to properly set and regularly re-check a drag is far less frustrating in the long run.
Today, “back reeling” is still utilized by some spinning reel fishermen, but “thumb dragging” is rarely used with baitcasters. Still, it is important to notice that both techniques evolved from the desire of experienced anglers to permit more “give” and reduce the number of lost fish.
The Drag
If “give” is a good thing to prevent crankbait hooks from tearing out, then attention must be given to the setting of the reel’s drag. Cheap reels have inferior drags that do not function smoothly. By the time the sudden pressure of a plunging fish causes inferior drag components to give, the maximum limit of the line or knot is often exceeded. As the line or knot pops, or the hook tears away, the angler is left speechless and in disbelief, (or turning the air blue with words that would curl their sweet mother’s hair).
When it comes to reels, you generally get what you pay for. A quality reel that supports a good drag can greatly reduce the number of lost fish. One of the great failures of inexperienced anglers begins before the first cast is made. A beginner may wisely start the morning off by checking the line closest to the crankbait for nicks, test their knot strength, but then they forget to pull line from their reel to test the drag. If the fish of a life-time is coming toward the boat, and decides to take one more huge effort to get free, that is NOT the time to wonder if your drag is set properly! Preventative habits, like checking your drag before you make your first cast, can increase the chances of a trophy fish coming into the boat.
A Line with “Give”
As we have moved through the factors that affect fish loss, we have gone from the fishermen, to the rod, to the reel, and now we have to discuss the line. When trolling, long lengths of line are often released in order to generate maximum depth from their crankbaits. Here is one of the few instances where the use of “non-stretch” lines may be desirable to increase sensitivity. This means that the “give” in the trolling process is sometimes reduced by the non-stretch line and delegated solely to the rod action and the reel’s drag.
For the most part, line “give” is a good thing when casting crankbaits. That’s why for several decades clear monofilament line continues to rule in crankbait circles. Monofilament casts well, is relatively inexpensive, and its “built-in stretch” can be a true advantage in most crankbait situations.
For the same reason we want to use a slower reacting rod in order to allow the fish more time to consume the crankbait, we also want a line that will “give” so as not to prematurely rip the bait away from the fish before it could be swallowed deep enough to ensure hook penetration.
Many pros believe the newer braids and fluorocarbon lines with no or little stretch simply compound the problem. Monofilament’s natural stretch tends to give fish more time with the crankbait before the angler sets the hook.
An exception to this may occur when throwing cranks into submerged forests, or into stump fields. Here a braided, no-stretch line may be necessary to instantly “control” or “turn” fish from rushing into thick cover and breaking off. In this case “give” is sacrificed for “control”. The rod and drag must then absorb the majority of the line shock that comes from a fighting fish in dense cover with no-stretch line.
A Strong Enough Line
And don’t forget line diameter and strength. It is foolish to fish with 6 pound line for large muskie. Consider the size of your prey, and then use the maximum line weight that 1) allows the crankbait to still run well, and 2) suits whatever water clarity and environmental conditions you have.
For example; if you are throwing a lipless crankbait for largemouth bass over stump fields in clear water, use 17 pound test. If it’s an open water situation, (with no cover to get snagged on), you can drop to 10 or 12 pound test - especially should line visibility in the clear water be a concern. But on the other hand, if the water is stained or muddy, and line-snapping cover is everywhere, go to a heavier and stronger 25 or 30 pound test. Unless you are trying to set a new line weight record, select the beefiest line the conditions will allow.
As a broad generalization; a line that 1) stretches, (such as mono), and 2) is well matched in diameter to the local conditions, is preferred in the fight to reduce lost fish on cranks.
The Knot
Whole books have been written about the countless variations of fishing knots available to the angler. If you want to research this in depth, type “Fishing Knots” into your computer’s browser and you can read to your heart’s content. The only thing we will focus on here is the obvious. You need a strong knot!
Before you cast that crankbait, check the knot. Pull on it hard. Beginners are often shocked at how easily yesterday’s knot snaps today. Too many lunkers swim away with an angler’s favorite crankbait because the knot was tied incorrectly, or was weakened over time. It doesn’t matter whether you have tied directly to the crankbait’s line-tie, split-ring, or you are using a snap – check that knot! Develop good habits; assume nothing and check the knot strength regularly throughout the day; a monster fish doesn’t strike often, so be prepared!
The Hook
As mentioned in “ABC’s of Crankbaits – HOOKS”; the body and motion of a crankbait attracts the fish, but it is the hooks that penetrate and hold a fish until the angler can get it to the boat or net. And yet, so many anglers ignore the condition of the crankbait’s treble hooks and end up frustrated because of lost fish. Ultra sharp trebles are essential components for successful crankbait angling.
Most crankbait buyers assume that a new crankbait has sharp trebles attached. Sharp? – Yes. Ultra sharp? – No. Most manufacturers buy standard trebles in bulk. This keeps the cost down, but leaves the crankbait with only adequate hooks for a limited time. Alert anglers are often surprised at how quickly these treble hooks dull. The points of treble hooks wear down, bend over, or break when bouncing off stumps, rock piles, or hard bottoms. NEVER assume a crankbait’s hooks are sharp. Check them regularly throughout the day.
When a treble is dull, there are two ways to correct the problem: 1) Sharpen the hook, or 2) Replace the hook. Long ago, replacement trebles were hard to find and everyone learned to sharpen their own with a file, or small grinding device. But today several quality manufacturers now provide ultra-sharp replacement hooks and most professionals simply throw the old ones away after switching them out with new ones.
Summary!
Lost fish are usually due to…
1) Bad angling technique,
2) Too stiff of a rod,
3) Poor drag system,
4) The wrong line,
5) A poorly tied or weakened knot,
6) Or dull hooks.
An angler who analyzes their technique and equipment - from “angler to fish” – will inevitably discover something that they are doing wrong that is easily correctable. Too many fishermen give up on crankbaits because they fish them incorrectly using the techniques and equipment better suited for other lures.
For the most part, crankbait fishing requires a “giving” presentation; one that utilizes the proper angling techniques, softer-longer rods, a quality drag system, line that stretches, properly tied and maintained knots, and sharp hooks. This “awareness” eliminates the frustration of lost fish, and increases the number of lunkers that reach the net.
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