LINE
by Chuck Bailey
If you want to stir up a hornet’s nest, find a fishing club website that has a forum, and then ask this simple question: “What’s the best fishing line to use when ________ fishing?” WWIII breaks out! “The ONLY line to use is brand X!” claims one member. “Are you kidding?” protests another, “I’ve broken off more big fish on brand X – it’s garbage!” Braid! Mono! Fluorocarbon! Hybrid! Low Stretch! Limp and Castable! Extra Tough and Abrasion Resistant! Red! Blue! Yellow! Green! Clear! 6 lb test! 12! 17! 25! The only clear conclusion is that the best line is the line a fisherman has faith in! Confidence catches more fish than any other angling ingredient.
However, beginners need a place to start, so let’s investigate some basics. Long ago, fish were not geniuses – they were being caught by our forefathers on line that was black or brown and so thick it could never be hidden from the fish! And yet they ate the bait anyway! These finned creatures must have been dumber in those days, because if today’s line manufacturers and their pro-staffers are correct, today’s modern fish demand the latest, clearest, strongest, high-tech lines or they can’t be caught!
MONOFILAMENT:
For several decades clear monofilament line has ruled. And if we can be so bold – it still works wonderfully for the average weekend angler! Even tournament professionals like David Fritts use 10 pound monofilament for 90% of his crankbait fishing! (He does tend to use lower stretch mono designed specifically for cranking). Why? Monofilament casts well, is relatively inexpensive, and is the standard by which all other lines are compared.
It does have one characteristic, a certain amount of built-in stretch that can be a disadvantage in some fishing situations. Cranking, however, isn’t one of them. In our discussion on RODS, we discussed that it is an advantage to use a slower reacting rod, (some preferring fiberglass over super sensitive graphite), in order to allow the fish more time to consume the crankbait. Too much sensitivity caused many fishermen to prematurely rip the bait away from the fish before it could be swallowed deep enough to ensure hook penetration. Many pros believe the newer braids and fluorocarbon lines with no stretch simply compound the problem. Monofilament’s natural stretch tends to give fish more time with the crankbait before the angler sets the hook.
DIAMETER AND DEPTH:
(info also found in “ABC’s of Crankbaits - DEPTH)
It didn’t take anglers long to realize that line diameter affected the running depth of a crankbait. Thin lines have less water resistance, cutting through the water, allowing the crankbait to go deeper. Stressing the importance of knowing how deep your favorite crankbaits run with different line diameters, Mike Iaconelli (professional bass angler) once gave this example: Using the same casting distance, a Norman Deep Little N will run approximately…
* 7.5 feet deep on 17 lb. line,
* 9 feet deep on 14 lb. line,
* 10.5 feet deep on 12 lb. line,
* 12 feet deep on 10 lb. line,
* 13.5 feet deep on 8 lb. line,
* and nearly 15 feet deep on 6 lb. line,
Mike says that on an average we should expect about a foot and a half depth change with every line size change. (From 7.5 feet to 15 feet is significant in terms of depth variations – all due to line diameter.)
Master anglers are not only aware that line diameter affects a crankbait’s running depth – they use this knowledge to their advantage. For example, suppose largemouth bass are buried down in the acres and acres of submerged grass fields in your favorite lake. Knowing that the grass grows to within two feet of the surface, the angler decides it might be wise to present a fast-moving shallow crankbait just above the grass. But the problem is, on 10 pound test their favorite crank runs 2.5 feet deep. In order not to be buried in the grass on every cast, an experienced angler will switch to a thicker diameter line, (perhaps 25 pound test mono) creating more water resistance and raising the bait the 6 or so inches desired. This “fine tuning” permits the bait to just nick the top of the grass, driving the bass wild.
Decreasing line diameter may also be advantageous in certain conditions. Let’s say the smallmouth are located on the rocky flats in 8 feet of water, but your crankbait only reaches 7 feet on 14 pound test. Perhaps you are observing that the smallies watch the bait go by, even follow it for a distance but then peal off. You may want to throw the same bait on 6 or 8 pound test allowing it greater depth in order to make contact with the bottom; remembering that a bait deflecting off structure often causes a reaction bite.
Anglers, take note: In certain situations an increase or decrease in line diameter can help “fine tune” the running depth of a crankbait and increase your productivity on the water.
As we have stated, regular mono is an excellent choice for most applications. But one of the characteristics of mono is it has a great deal of stretch. If an angler is using a deep diver with a “worming the bait” technique (sweeping it several feet like you would plastics in a stop and go retrieve) the stretch of mono will not permit your bait to reach its potential depth. A non-stretch line, like braid or fluorocarbon, may be the answer. Some lines float, and some sink; like lead core. Lead core is often used by those who troll, because its weight increases the depths a crankbait can reach.
Line diameter also has a “secondary effect” on depth, in that, thinner line casts further. And as we are about to discover in the next section, casting distance makes a significant impact on a crankbait’s running depth.
CASTING DISTANCE:
Generally, longer casts cause crankbaits to reach and run further at their maximum depth. (This isn’t as dramatic with shallow runners as it is with deep divers). Why? When Ron Linder was a part of the Infisherman magazine staff, he pointed out that deep cranking required long casts. Why? Because approximately 2/3’s of the retrieve is used up in just getting a deep diver down, and then back up. If it takes 1/3 the length of a retrieve just to get the bait down to it’s maximum DEPTH, and 1/3 to bring it back up to the boat, the bait runs at its maximum depth only 1/3 of the cast. Conclusion: With deep divers, a short cast barely allows a deep diving crankbait to reach its full depth before it has to start its way back up to the boat.
Some of the most interesting research on “Casting Distance” is found in a guide entitled “Precision Casting” by Dr. Steven Holt and Mark Romanack. The guide contains precise diving charts for 123 popular crankbaits. They concluded that the average casting distance for anglers, (throwing a 3/8 ounce crankbait on 14 pound mono), was about 70 feet. Their research went on to prove that a given crankbait runs about 25 percent shallower on a 40-foot cast than on a 70-foot cast. And a 100-foot cast allows the crankbait to dive 15 percent deeper than a 70-foot cast.
Now before a novice takes their new baitcasting reel and starts flinging their favorite crankbait with all of their might, they should be aware that it takes advanced skill to be able to cast beyond 70-75 feet. Above-average anglers may be able to reach 100 feet without creating a “bird’s nest” (often described as “a professional over-ride”), but beginners should work up to this slowly.
It’s true, some pros (equipped with long rods and top-end reels filled with light line), are able to zip a bait as far as 125 feet, but only the competitive pressures of tournament fishing would motive an angler to attempt such long distance casting. Weekend anglers with limited casting skills will find little pleasure in spending most of their day picking out “bird nests” in an attempt to get a little more depth from their crankbait. And in reality, 125 foot casts aren’t utilized by pros to increase the running depth. Long casts are primarily thrown to allow the bait to run at maximum depth in the “strike zone” for a longer period of time before they head back up to the boat.
How “casting distance” affects “depth” is first and foremost presented here to prevent an angler from mistakenly making short casts with a deep diver and expecting the crankbait to reach maximum depth. Light lines allow cranks to be cast further.
LURE WEIGHT/COVER/WATER CLARITY:
Pros tend to use 6-10 pound test line when throwing smaller and lighter cranks in clear open water. 10 pound monofilament is right for most situations. Heavier line tends to squelch the action of smaller crankbaits and limits the casting distance and accuracy. Light line is generally required to throw light lures. But remember, if you are fishing around heavy cover, light line is a risky venture.
The rule of thumb is to use the lightest line possible for the lake conditions and the size of fish you are pursuing. If the average bass in your lake is 2-3 pounds, lighter line is used than when you are targeting 10 lb plus trophy bass in Southern California.
And if you are crashing the heavier deep-divers through a stump field – heavier abrasion resistant line is a real plus! (Heavier line also increases your chances of getting snagged crankbaits back!) A range of 14 to 20 pound test mono is used, (sometimes 25 lb if the cover is thick) especially if the crankbait is heavy.
On the other hand, open water allows you to down size the line because there is less chance of snagging on structure. Midrange jerkbaits are often thrown with 8, 10, or 12 lb line.
Where water clarity is stained or muddy, line visibility is less of an issue, and as long as the correct depth can be reached, heavier lines can be used. Why risk loosing a big fish if you don’t have to? In clear water, smaller line diameters keep the focus on the crankbait.
Consider the weight of the lure, the cover or lack of cover, and the water clarity before choosing what diameter line to use.
BRAIDS:
Woven Braids are thinner, provide less water resistance, and therefore take cranks and suspending baits deeper. With this significantly smaller diameter, smaller reels hold more line. As mentioned earlier, thinner lines cast further. A 10-pound version may have the diameter of 2-pound monofilament. Braid also is non-stretch, and hooksets are better at long distances, making it popular with trollers who often set out a lot of line when using crankbaits. While more expensive, braid also lasts and lasts – unlike mono which wears out quickly.
Considering all these unique characteristics, one might be puzzled to discover that many crankbait anglers don’t use it, preferring mono in most situations. Remember, crankbaits generally work best with flexible rods and line that stretches – giving the fish more opportunity to consume the crankbait. Therefore many anglers pass on using braid when casting cranks believing that it reduces their catch ratios.
However, some anglers are willing to give up the stretch of mono for the sensitivity of braid, especially when throwing or trolling deep-divers. As long as they loosen their reel’s drag and use more flexible rods (to increase the shock absorbence during vicious strikes), they feel the extra sensitivity is worth it. Rather than setting the hook, they continue to reel at normal speeds and let the fish hook themselves.
If an angler is using a down-rigger or using planner boards while trolling, the braided line is an advantage because of the no-stretch characteristic. Generally the fisherman has a lot of line out and it’s easier to make up for the distance factor. Mono stretches too much and hooksets are harder.
Another place where braid works is when casting lipless cranks over submerged weeds beds. The no-stretch characteristic allows an angler to rip the bait out of snagged weeds quicker and easier. Sometimes bass fishermen prefer braid if they are fishing for bass in super heavy cover or stump fields. They may use a heavy braided line in the 65lb class or better to make sure they can pull the fish out of the heavy stuff. Braid also slices through lily pads when a large fish is hooked rather than getting bogged down.
However, braided line has its disadvantages too. Braid tends to pull hooks out of fish’s mouths because it has little or no give. Many will also bemoan the fact that braid tends to be flat and “digs” or “slices” into the rest of the line on the spool of a baitcaster when it is being wound during a retrieve. This makes smooth casting difficult because when the spinning line jams, everything stops, and the lure will often come snapping back at the angler.
But over time, technology is slowly improving braid by making it rounder and by adding supplemental ingredients in its composition that help eliminate the line digging/jamming problem in baitcasters. Spinning reels work well with braid, especially since the woven line doesn’t have “memory” like mono does. This allows braid to come off the spinning spool better than monofilament, even after sitting unused for months.
In clear water, it is important to remember that braids are thinner than mono, but they're opaque, creating a dark silhouette. Still, at the faster speeds that most crankbaits are retrieved – braid shouldn’t present a problem as the fish has very little time to study the situation. In most cases the speed will elicit a reaction bite.
Having explored the unique traits of braid, most anglers still believe mono works best for most crankbait applications. This is especially true with jerkbaits and topwaters where you want some stretch in your line, (a trait of monofilament). With those same examples, many believe you get better action with mono than with braid. Braid can be excellent in some situations, but should you find yourself losing too many fish because the hooks on your hard bait pulled out due to a lack of “give”, go back to mono.
FLUOROCARBON:
Fluorocarbon is a recent evolution in line – but like all new technological advances it has its niche and it cannot be the answer to all angling needs. Recognizing its unique characteristics and comparing them to the needs of crankbaiting will enable us to determine if and where fluorocarbon can best be utilized.
First, fluorocarbon is denser than water, so it sinks. Secondly, fluorocarbon becomes nearly invisible when submerged in water, (far more so than mono). Thirdly, it does not absorb water so it stays extremely strong, abrasion resistant, and durable. Fourthly, it is not weakened by the ultra-violet light from the sun, so it doesn’t break down as quickly.
Disadvantages? First, it is extremely more expensive, (the fluorocarbon material cost four times more than nylon to produce). Secondly, it is stiffer than mono and causes some line twist problems, more so with spinning gear than baitcasting. Thirdly, an angler must be extremely careful in tying knots – if the cords cross or kink they break easily.
Note: Some anglers, like David Fritts, feel monofilament lasts longer than fluorocarbon. Other pros disagree, so at this time the jury is still out in terms of line-life expectancy.
Now, let’s apply these unique characteristics to crankbaiting. First, fluorocarbon sinks. This not good for topwater. Why? Because as a submerged line is retrieved, it draws the floating bait downward instead of forward. Topwater baits need floating line.
When it comes to jerkbaits, non-floating line is helpful, as it allows suspending baits to reach their proper depth and stay there.
If you are speed-reeling lip-less cranks above the top of submerged grass fields, you want to keep the lure up, so you don’t want a sinking line. In this presentation, mono is preferred over fluorocarbon.
However, when it comes to deep-diving crankbaits, fluorocarbon line can work well. Because the line sinks, there is less of an arched line like there is with mono when the crankbait is retrieved. Therefore, some cranks will run up to 2 feet deeper with fluorocarbon.
And this no-stretch trait allows an increase in sensitivity, and quicker hooksets. Subtle bites in deep water are hard to feel, so fluorocarbon gives an angler an edge.
(Remember, however, that early bite detection and quick hooksets can often pull the crankbait out of the fish’s mouth before it can be swallowed deep enough to ensure hook penetration. So you might want to use a softer action rod, a looser drag, and an intentional time delay in the hookset – even allowing the fish to set the hook itself as it turns. If a hookset is used, make it a slow sweeping hookset, rather than a “cross their eyes” lightening hookset. If your reflexes are too fast and you continue to lose too many fish on the strike, you may have to go back to mono).
When topwater fishing, many pros believe that line stretch of monofilament allows these baits to pop, blurp, and spit without moving the bait too far. An angler wants to advance the topwater lure while producing plenty of action, but keeping the crankbait in the strike zone as long as possible. A non-stretch line does not allow the bait to bounce back after creating commotion on the surface. This is another reason fluorocarbon and braid is not a good candidate for topwater.
As to fluorocarbon’s “invisibility” under water; it’s not a noticeable advantage when reeling in most crankbaits, as the fish don’t have as much time to notice line details. Why? Because they are having to focus completely on what appears to be an escaping food source. The crankbait’s speed means the fish has only a brief time to determine if it is edible or not before it is out of striking range. The line attached to the crankbait would have to be glowing to distract the fish from the crankbait. (Obviously soft plastics, moved slowly, is where clear fluorocarbon shines. But fast-moving reflex-evoking cranks don’t need any more line invisibility than mono already provides).
The exception might be a slower presentation in clear water; like a shallow-running jerkbait that is reeled to its depth, then snapped forward, (jerked), and left to suspend. (With much more time to observe the bait, the fish might be distracted by external elements like dark or opaque line. In clear water you want to reduce the number of unnatural warning signs that might spook the fish).
But remember, many professional anglers want some stretch in their jerkbait lines, and aren’t willing to trade the elasticity of mono for the sink-ability and invisibility of fluorocarbon. You may have to experiment to determine which of these characteristics are more important to your style of fishing, especially with jerkbaits.
And finally, fluorocarbon line is stronger than monofilament of the same diameter. Obviously fluorocarbon’s abrasion resistance, and tough durability are an advantage around heavy cover; anglers lose less crankbaits (and fish) with stronger lines. The question to ask is “How much of your cranking is done around heavy cover?” Open water crankbait fishermen may not feel the extra cost of fluorocarbon justifies its use. Heavy cover fishermen may disagree.
LINE COLOR:
There are two trains of thought when it comes to line color. 1) Fish just aren’t smart enough to understand what “line” is, or the role it plays in catching them. (…even if they can see the line). It appears to some anglers that only line manufacturers care about line color – as they continually struggle to offer “something new or different” in their product line. Anglers in this camp of thought believe most new changes or “improvements” (including colored lines), are actually designed to catch more fishermen than fish.
The second and opposing train of thought concerning line color is… 2) Fish are extremely aware of, and sensitive to, color. Some colored line attracts fish, and others do not. Fishermen debate the topic of color relentlessly, but until a real-life “Doctor Doolittle” comes along who can talk to the fish, we may never know if fish see the same things we do under water.
The fact is; line comes in a variety of colors. Many believe that the color of the water should dictate the color of the line. The idea is that blue line should be used in blue water, green line in green water, red line in red clay environments or water containing tannic colored particles, etc… Many others believe that “clear line” does this automatically as it always reflects the color of its surroundings.
But fishing is all about confidence. If an angler is convinced their yellow line gives them an advantage – they will fish harder and more successfully (even while there is no scientific proof that line color was instrumental.) If the fisherman thinks red line makes fish believe there is a “blood trail” – more power to them. While some darker lines may repel fish, science has yet to prove that line color affects angling success by attracting fish.
One theory that is more probable is the concept that a colored line, (perhaps a bright green or yellow line), is easier for the angler to see. Pros excel because they are experts at line watching, (looking for even the most subtle of twitches that indicate a bite). But under certain light and water conditions, some lines can be hard to see. A colored line makes it easier for the caster to observe telltale signals as to what is happening under the water. Fearing that colored line may be giving fish negative indications that the forage is not real, many will tie on a long clear leader. That way the fish do not see the clear line at the business end, while the angler more easily sees the colored line on top of the water.
REEL DRAGS/ROD FLEXIBILITY:
One more note – if your pocket book can afford it, purchase a high quality reel that has an excellent drag system. Why? It reduces the pressure on fishing line when fighting fish, therefore lighter line can be used. Beginners can’t always fork out a small fortune when purchasing their first reels, so as long as they realize that the drag system may not be as smooth as those on their higher quality cousins, they can compensate by using a slightly heavier line so as to reduce breakage during a fish’s power surge.
This same theory applies to rod selection. A softer rod is more flexible and “gives” during a fish’s run, allowing lighter line to be used. A stiff rod is less flexible and requires the line to be heavier and stronger. That’s just fishing common sense.
SUMMARY:
1) The best line is the line a fisherman has faith in! Confidence catches more fish than any other angling ingredient.
2) Monofilament casts well, is relatively inexpensive, and is the standard by which all other lines are compared.
3) Monofilament’s natural stretch tends to give fish more time with the crankbait before the angler sets the hook.
4) Highly sensitive lines (like braids and fluorocarbon lines with no-stretch) cause many anglers to prematurely rip the bait away from the fish before it can be swallowed deep enough to ensure hook penetration.
5) Line diameter affects the running depth of a crankbait. Thin lines have less water resistance, cutting through the water, allowing the crankbait to go deeper.
6) In certain situations an increase or decrease in line diameter can help “fine tune” the running depth of a crankbait and increase your productivity on the water.
7) Thinner line casts further; allowing the bait to run at maximum depth in the “strike zone” for a longer period of time. (Especially important for deep divers).
8) Use 6-10 pound test line when throwing smaller and lighter cranks in clear open water. 10 pound monofilament is right for most situations. Heavier line tends to squelch the action of smaller crankbaits and limits the casting distance and accuracy. Spinning gear is often used.
9) The rule of thumb is to use the lightest line possible for the lake conditions, (structure, etc..) and the size of fish you are pursuing.
10) When running cranks through heavy structure, a range of 14 to 20 pound test mono is used, (sometimes 25 lb if the cover is thick), especially if the crankbait is heavy.
11) Where water clarity is stained or muddy, line visibility is less of an issue, and as long as the correct depth can be reached, heavier lines can be used.
12) Woven braided lines…
a) are thinner and provide less water resistance, (and therefore take crankbaits and suspending baits deeper in the water column),
b) are non-stretch, (and hooksets are better at long distances, making it popular with trollers who often set out a lot of line when using crankbaits),
c) are extremely sensitive,
d) are very expensive,
e) are long-lasting,
f) are opaque. (Dark, not clear)
13) Spinning reels work well with braid, especially since the woven line doesn’t have “memory” like mono does. However, on a baitcaster the flatter line tends to dig into the rest of the line on the spool when it is being wound during a retrieve, making smooth casting difficult at times.
14) Fluorocarbon line…
a) sinks, (good for deep divers, bad for topwater)
b) is extremely clear, (this invisibility is helpful when fishing jerkbaits but not a noticeable advantage over mono with other faster moving crankbait applications)
c) is extremely strong, abrasion resistant, and durable,
d) does not break down from the ultra-violet light from the sun,
e) is extremely more expensive than mono,
f) is stiffer than mono and causes some line twist problems, more so with spinning gear than baitcasting.
g) requires care in tying knots – if the cords cross or kink they break easily.
h) is non-stretching and highly sensitive.
15) Both the sensitivity and non-stretch characteristics of braided and fluorocarbon lines can be a disadvantage for most crankbaiting because the quick reflexes of most anglers prematurely rip the bait away from the fish before it could be swallowed deep enough to ensure hook penetration.
16) Braid and fluorocarbon do get utilized in cranking when in a) heavy structure, where strength is necessary, and b) when throwing deep divers where extra sensitivity is helpful and deeper depths can be reached due to their thinner diameters.
17) While colored line is easier for the angler to see, there is no scientific proof that line color affects angling success by attracting fish.
18) A high quality reel that has an excellent drag system, combined with a softer rod that is more flexible, helps to reduce the pressure on fishing line when fighting fish, therefore lighter line can be used.
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