HARDWARE: SNAPS, SPLIT-RINGS, SWIVELS
by Chuck Bailey
One concept that that seems to have with stood the test of time is the belief that tying directly to the crankbait’s eyelet will dampen or stiffen a lure’s action. Most notably it prevents the crankbait from wobbling freely. Sometimes, (depending on where the line is tied to the eyelet – high or low), it may negatively affect its maximum running depth. And if not tied facing directly forward, the knot may cause a crank to run off to one side. Hence, anglers have used snaps, split-rings (O-rings), and loop knots as a positive alternative to tying directly to the eyelet.
SPLIT RINGS (O-rings):
Most crankbaits come with a split ring attached to the nose eyelet and many successful anglers tie directly to the split ring, (making sure the knot doesn’t slip between the halves of the split ring). This extra pivot point gives the crank the freedom to wobble from side to side. Some believe that the wider the split ring, the more wobble is allowed. This belief motivates some anglers to replace the original split ring in the nose eyelet with a larger one.
Hook split rings: Older wooden lures often attached treble hooks directly to the body of the crankbait either by specially made harness hardware, or by physically opening and closing the eyelet screw with pliers. Today, most manufacturers use split rings between the hook eyelets and the desired trebles. A treble that does not rotate freely tends to enable a hooked and thrashing fish to use the crankbait’s weight to pry the treble loose. A split ring allows more freedom for twist and less leverage for the fish to dislodge the crankbait from its mouth.
In terms of choosing the right size, the split ring should be able to move around freely within both the hook hanger and the hook eye. If the diameter or width of the split ring is too large, (making for a tight fit), it reduces the freedom of the hooks to twist during a battle with the fish. If the diameter of the split ring wire is too small or made of softer materials than the hook hanger or hooks, it becomes the weakest link and can open up – leaving an angler with a hookless crank and another sad story of the “monster that got away”.
One small warning: there is no "official" sizing standards, meaning that one manufacturer's #3 split ring may be a different size from another manufacturer's #3. Finding a quality split ring brand and sticking to it will make it easier for an angler to pick the right one for the job.
Oval split-rings are nice because they don’t rotate as the round split-rings do. The wire ends will always remain off to the wide side, assuring that the crankbait body eyelets and the treble hooks are always in contact with two overlapping layers of wire. And when used to connect line to the nose eyelet, the oval shape prevents the line’s knot from slipping into the single wire opening and possibly getting worn or cut on the wire ends.
Know this: you can buy cheap split rings, but you will regret that decision after hooking and losing a trophy fish. Invest in quality hardware and you’ll fish with more confidence.
SNAPS:
A snap is another way of providing an additional pivot point at the nose eyelet, allowing the wobble necessary to catch fish. However, many anglers attach their snaps to the lure’s split ring, doubling the pivot points and creating the widest wobble. Rick Clunn has been quoted saying that if a crankbait is difficult to tune, a snap may help it run true.
One of the advantages over a split ring is the snap’s ability to quickly change baits. The less time spent tying knots equates into more time spent casting – increasing your changes on finding and attracting strikes. Only a lure in the water catches fish.
Make sure you use snaps that interlock when closed. Black is best, as it tends to be less of a reflective distraction in the water.
If snaps have one draw back, it’s that anglers tend to focus less on the knot while changing baits. Always check the line for frays and test the knot for strength, retying on a regular basis helps assure the “fish of a lifetime” does not escape.
SWIVELS:
Crankbaits do not need swivels. Why? Well constructed hardbaits run true right out of the package, and do not twist the line as they run through the water. Many beginning anglers who use snaps mistakenly purchase the snaps with swivels. Resist this temptation. While harder to find, snaps without swivels are best.
(The only exception to this “no-swivel” rule is when using a three-way rig in deep water, especially during the winter. A three-way swivel is used, with one swivel tied to the rod’s line, the second swivel tied to a short leader with a heavy lead weight, and the third swivel containing a leader that attaches to a trailing crankbait. It’s a slow vertical trolling technique that is very productive in the cold weather seasons. However, you’ll notice that even here, the swivel is never tied directly to the crankbait.)
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