FLAT-LINE TROLLING
Definition: Flat-line trolling is a technique of fishing that uses an electric or gas motor to move an angler’s boat at varying speeds, thereby giving action to a lure (or lures) strategically dragged a specific distance behind the craft. Unlike using planner-boards or down riggers, (which will be addressed separately), flat-line trolling uses only the rod, reel, line and lure (in our case – crankbaits), to fish. Occasionally weights, lead-core line, or in-line diving-devices are used to aid in increasing or controlling the depth, but no external device or aid requiring other lines or wires are used, and for the most part the depth is controlled by these primary factors: bill size, line diameter, the amount of line released, the material the crankbait is made of, and boat speed.
A Lost Art?
Some say trolling is a lost art. But only in some circles. Salmon, Walleye, Striper, Trout, even Muskie and Pike fishermen utilize the technique regularly. It is the ever-increasing population of bass fishermen that are most in need of rediscovering the skills required for this very effective system of catching fish.
When B.A.S.S. founder, Ray Scott, put together the rules for the first professional tournaments, he banned trolling. Speculation runs rampant as to “why”. Some say…
* “It’s because trolling was just too darn effective!”
* “Trolling and live bait was considered low skill techniques, therefore ruled out to promote higher skilled presentations.”
* “It was my understanding that Ray Scott was sick of seeing the trollers win all the tournaments, so he banned it.”
We may never know the true reason trolling was banned, (though it would make for a good article someday), but this we do know; the new rule initiated a dramatic increase in the development or improvement of “casting” techniques, and an abandonment of “trolling” among bass fishermen.
But for every tournament bass fishermen, there are hundreds of weekend anglers who, (with a little knowledge and direction), would love to rediscover a fishing heritage that effectively puts fish in the boat, and brings another exciting dimension to the art of crankbait angling.
Trolling Advantages – Reduced “Down Time”
Many a father has turned to a son or daughter fiddling with their bait and said, “Hey, remember, you can’t catch fish unless your lure is in the water.” Naturally, the more time a crankbait spends in the water, (in the strike zone, at the proper depth), the greater the chance of producing a strike.
Casting requires some reeling time and distance to get a crankbait down to its designed running depth. With deep divers, especially, this descent can take as much as a third of the casting distance. It takes almost as much time to bring a deep diver back to the surface – hence only one third of the time is spent down in the strike zone. More “down time” comes as the lure is tossed again through the air.
Trolling, however, has very little “down time”. After the initial cast is made, the pull of the trolling motor gets the bait down and keeps it down in the strike zone. Unless the lure fouls in weeds or snags in structure, the crankbait could be towed for miles without ever needing to be retrieved. The most preferred reason for reeling in is because a fish has the crankbait’s hooks firmly imbedded in it’s mouth.
Excellent Search Bait For “Active” Fish
Another primary advantage of trolling is that it can allow an angler to cover a vast amount of territory in a relatively short time. Most trollers are looking for “active” fish. Most species in a lake or river do not all feed or rest at the same time. Though there may be times of the day when activity rates as a whole tend to increase or decrease, there will always be inactive and active fish in a lake.
Trolling crankbaits is an excellent search technique that primarily seeks out active fish. It might depress some anglers to know just how many inactive fish watch their bait go by in a typical day. Trollers recognize that truth as “a fact of life”, and intentionally target the active fish which may be spread out over a vast expanse in the lake.
Many times active fish will hang out together, and once a fish is caught, a wise troller turns and goes back through that area repeatedly. Chances are good the angler will pick up several others.
Another alternative after catching the first fish is to stop trolling and fan cast that area with a variety of baits. But regardless, that specific group of fish may have never been located through slower casting techniques. The ground covering, water eliminating advantages of trolling make it a great search technique. It locates more fish in less time.
Other Advantages…
Anyone who has ever been on a lake where the wind is blowing strong knows how frustrating it can be to cast a crankbait accurately, especially into the wind. Trolling is far less affected by gusty weather. As long as the angler running the trolling motor adjusts to maintain the proper boat speed, the lure remains at the proper depth, and retains the ability to catch fish.
Smallmouth anglers out on Lake Erie have reported times when they were unable to stand in the boat or cast a crankbait because of the windy conditions and waves, but were still able to troll and produce great numbers, (though they had to net the fish on their knees.)
It is also hard to “cast” two rods at a time. Trolling allows more than one rod to be used simultaneously. This permits the angler to experiment with different colors, sizes, body styles, and depths all at the same time. It is essential that anglers check their state’s fishing regulations to make sure fishing with more than one line is legal. (For instance, two rods were not legal in the state of Washington until 2009, and even that privilege requires addition fees).
With today’s GPS devices, it has become very easy to control the speed of a crankbait when trolling. For instance, if 1.2 miles per hour has been determined to be the most effective speed throughout the morning, and suddenly a wind comes up, adjustments have to be made to compensate for the forces the wind places on the boat. Without the technology that reveals the true speed of the boat, anglers have to guess – making windy days frustrating.
After purchasing a GPS that shows the actual travel speed, many beginners are shocked to discover the effect that even a slight breeze can have on their boat, (and hence, on their crankbait speed). If an angler’s boat is traveling with the wind, a GPS will indicate the increase in speed and prompt the angler to slow down. This may even demand a drift sock to be throw over to reduce speed.
But when the boat is turned into the wind, it is remarkable as to how much extra trolling power is necessary to keep the crankbait running at the desired fish-triggering-speed. With modern technology, trolling is gaining additional advantages in being able to keep the crankbait consistently running at the proper speed and depth.
Limitations
Naturally, if fish are located in lily pad fields or thick weeds that reach the surface, trolling will not work. If fish are right up against the bank of a jagged shoreline, it is impossible to reach them as an angler might with a straight shoreline. Any sections of the lake where there are projecting docks, pilings, and flooded trees - trolling is not possible, (though trolling near the structure, along weedlines, or over submerged trees is doable).
Depth – The Key!
If the fish being targeted are hanging out at specific depth, an angler’s crankbait needs to be able to find its way into their strike zone, (or the angler’s efforts are wasted). It is important to remember that most species will swim forward or upward to attack a crankbait, but rarely do they move down in the water column to strike a crankbait.
It’s been well documented that active fish will rise great distances to attack a crankbait, but inactive fish with smaller strike zones will simply watch a distant crankbait go by. And if an angler’s offering is 30 feet deep when the fish are suspended up in15 feet, few will be caught.
Regardless of the size of the strike zone of fish on that particular day, the crankbait must enter that “Triggering bubble” that envelopes the fish, or the angler’s attempts are futile.
Therefore, depth control is critical.
Testing Depth
It is important for trollers to ignore what is printed on a crankbait’s package. That figure is probably an average that comes from casting the bait. Crankbaits almost always go deeper when trolled.
You need to test a crankbait’s maximum diving depth by taking 10 pound test line and playing out a hundred feet of line. Using your GPS, pick and attain a test speed, (say, 1.5 or 2 miles per hour – that’s it’s up to you. Just be consistent when testing different lures).
Your depth-finder is now the key – use it to move up or down in the water column until your lure starts to touch the bottom. Record this data in a book, (listing both the lure and its maximum depth), and refer to it when you need to select a crankbait to run at a specific depth.
(As we will soon discover, if an angler lets out more line, changes speeds, or switches to thinner or thicker line - the recorded depth will no longer be accurate. But the data will give the fisherman a place to start.)
Remember: Depth is key! Therefore, to be effective when trolling, an angler must be aware of the factors that affect the depth of their crankbaits. And that includes bill size, line diameter, the amount of line released, the material the crankbait is made of, and boat speed.
Bill Size
This may seem obvious to most anglers, that small bills (lips) are found on shallower running baits, and larger bills are found on deeper diving baits. But life is never that simple. (See “ABC’s of Crankbaits – THE BILL” for specifics).
There are some crankbaits that have huge bills and yet will still only get down to 15 feet. Whereas some smaller billed crankbaits will go down far beyond that when trolled. Lip shape and its angle to the body, the size of the body the lip is attached to… and a host of other factors affect a bill’s impact on the crankbait’s running depth.
The bill design of some crankbaits actually restricts them to slower speeds. At faster velocities the water turbulence causes certain baits to stop tracking. Spinning then occurs, or the crankbait will pop back up to the surface. Only time on the water and the methodical testing of each crankbait’s running depth will give an angler the knowledge necessary to maintain a bait at a particular depth.
Never assume you know how deep a lure will go by simply looking at the size of its bill.
Line Diameter
Water creates friction on line as it moves through the water. The thicker the line, the more resistance. Thinner line cuts easier through the water and allows a crankbait to achieve more depth. How much?
Mike McClelland is a walleye tournament angler who tested about 200 crankbaits and put the results in a book called “Crankbaits”. In it Mike states that trolled lures run about a foot deeper for every line size decrease. (For example; switching from 14 to 12 pound test line.)
Dr. Steven Holt, Mark Romanack and Tom Irwin also did some research and wrote the book “Precision Trolling”. They discovered that 10 pound test monofilament line is the best for trolling most shad imitating crankbaits and minnowbaits.
Tests revealed that dropping down to lighter 8 pound test line led to a dramatic increase in lost fish due a lack of hook penetration. Some stretch in the line can be good and acts as a shock absorber during hard strikes, but too much stretch can be detrimental.
The lighter and smaller diameter lines tend to stretch to the point that the excessive ‘give’ permits fish to spit out the crankbait before the points of the treble hooks can catch or be driven home.
An angler should take into account this simple trolling rule when choosing what pound test to use: less than 10 = less hook ups; more than 10 = less depth.
Of course if you are targeting stripers, pike or muskie – the line diameter needs to increase dramatically. But for bass, walleye, trout, etc…10 pound test allows maximum depth without sacrificing hook setting power.
Side-line on line!
While on the topic of line, most anglers use monofilament. It works very well for most trolling applications because it stretches, which helps a “barely hooked” fish stay on longer, increasing your chances of getting it in the net.
But some trollers will also use braided line, aware that it’s both strong while having a smaller diameter than mono. (Therefore 20 pound braid cuts through the water the same as 10 pound mono. And because a crankbait on 10 pound braid is thinner, it will go deeper than one on 10 pound monofilament). When running braids, many anglers suggest tying on a 6-8 foot, 10 to12 pound fluorocarbon leader.
No doubt, these thinner “no-stretch” braided lines take a crankbait a foot or two deeper, and definitely telegraph the lure’s action through the rod tip. It often helps fishermen detect subtle strikes better, while delivering more powerful hooksets.
However, a word of caution – remember that braid is low stretch, (as is fluorocarbon), and should an angler decide to use it, they will need to make up for the lack of line ‘give’ by loosening up their reel’s drag, and/or shifting to a bit softer rod.
Please note; a smashing strike from a large bass, walleye, or lake trout can create a tremendous shock to the rod/reel/line combination. If the hook is not be torn free, and if the line or knot is to be kept from breaking, then something has to give. Something has to absorb the shock. Equipped with the knowledge that braided lines don’t stretch, an angler must see to it that softer rods are selected and looser drag settings exist to compensate.
Back to “Depth” Influencers: The Amount of line Released
After an angler understands how bill design and line diameter affects the running depth of a crankbait, focus should shift to the “length of line” released behind the boat. To accurately pinpoint the depth of your crankbait, it’s imperative to know how much line is out.
First, a couple of generalizations; 1) To obtain maximum running depth, shallow lures need less line and deeper diving cranks need more line. 2) Up to a point, the more line released, the deeper the lure goes.
However, one study claims that most crankbaits reach maximum depths when trolled 120 feet behind the boat. The cumulative water resistance on any longer lengths of line prevents the bait from attaining deeper depths, and in some cases causes the bait to rise higher in the water column.
To muddy the waters, another study says it may take 150, 200, and even 250 feet of line for some crankbaits to reach maximum depth. Who’s right?
Well, some say it’s irrelevant because other factors like line stretch come into play; especially with mono. Beyond a 120 feet, the cumulative stretch of monofilament dramatically decreases an angler’s hook-setting ability. If you are required to put out 200 feet to reach maximum depth but can’t set the hook, what good is it?
If an angler needs more depth beyond a 120 feet, they should not let out more line; they need to 1) use a thinner line, or 2) switch to lead core line, or 3) add weights, or 4) reach for a deeper diving crankbait.
Line Length Duplication
Once an optimum length of line has been discovered for a particular crankbait, there are several ways to duplicate that on a consistent basis:
1) Use a line-counting reel.
2) Purchase a separate line counter that fits on the rod. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
3) Count the number of “pulls” as you strip out line.
4) Count the number of turns of the handle (spinning reels only) as line is played out.
5) Use a bobber stop on the line to mark the preferred distance.
6) Tie a bright thread around the line.
7) Mark the line with a water-proof felt marker.
Rod Position
When casting a crankbait 60-70 feet, rod position can change the depth a crankbait runs at. But when trolling, rod position has little effect on lure depth, especially when more than 100 feet of line is out. At that point holding the rod tip up high or plunging it below the water’s surface has little or no effect on running depth.
Body Material and Construction
The materials crankbaits are constructed from will determine whether they sink, suspend, or float. Obviously a wooden minnowbait made of balsa is going to rise if the trolling speed slows down or stops. A heavy plastic crank designed to sink, will naturally go lower in the water column under the same conditions.
Just because a large bill is placed on a crankbait, doesn’t mean it will attack the bottom if the body material is extremely buoyant. Like wise, it’s difficult to keep a heavy sinking bait near the surface.
It is equally important to understand what happens when a boat making S-turns; the inside cranks slow down, and the outside cranks speed up. In each case, the angler must know whether the crankbaits are sinking, staying suspended, or rising as the speed changes. Only by recognizing the relationship that body material and construction have on the depth of a crankbait, can an angler consistently present their offering in the strike zone of the fish they seek to catch.
SPEED
We have just touched upon an important fact; the depth of a lure changes when the boat speeds up or slows down. Most crankbaits have an optimum speed that displays it’s most alluring action in the water. Before an angler lets line out, they should place their rod near the water besides the moving boat and observe the crankbait’s motion. Increase and decrease the speed until the crankbait looks its most enticing. Note the speed on your GPS, or if you don’t have one, observe and memorize the vibration at the rod’s tip.
It’s important to note that at high speeds, some crankbaits might track left or right, while others just roll to the surface. Every crankbait has an optimal speed. Generally it will fall into the 1-2 miles per hour range. Observe how the crankbait responds to different speeds and take notes. Those notes can help an angler immensely in selecting the initial trolling speed.
But remember: who cares how good a lure looks in the water if it isn’t producing strikes? The fish’s preferences should be the primary concern. Some times they want it fast and other times they want it slow. Only by constantly changing the speed of the boat can that be revealed.
SPEED CHANGE-UPS!
It’s true, some species, like perch, prefer a steady retrieve. But the majority of larger fish are often “triggered” into striking by changes in speed. It is amazing how many anglers turn their trolling motor on, stick their rod in the holder, and head straight down the lake expecting a limit of fish. Little do they know just how many “followers” observed their crankbaits but turned off. The lure’s unvarying speed gave them very few indications that this thing was natural forage.
Natural prey are always stopping and starting, and when a predator shows up, they run!! Anglers can increase their catch ratios by making their crankbaits imitate those natural forage reactions.
Adjusting the Motor
When flat-line trolling, lure speed can be changed three ways. The first is obvious: increase or decrease the speed of the trolling motor. Constantly doing this can be a lot of work, especially when using a foot-controlled electric trolling motor. Even those models with infinite variable speeds have dials that are often stiff, making it difficult to accurately and constantly vary the running speed. It can be done, but after several hours it gets old in a hurry.
Rod Movements
Many beginners usually discover the second method by silently studying the “old master” in the boat, (usually after being completely out fished 10 to 1). Having matched the equipment perfectly, the novice finally notices the teacher always holds their rod, rarely setting it in the holder. Then every so often, they slowly sweep their rod towards the bow of the boat where they pause. That is followed by dropping their rod back towards the stern, putting slack in the line, and causing the crankbait to stop momentarily.
And suddenly the beginner catches on to the fact that it is during either of these rod movements that most of the master’s strikes happen.
The experienced troller knows that fish may be patiently following and studying the crankbait. Sometimes as the rod is swept forward and the bait speeds up, it appears dinner is escaping and the predator will chase it down and crunch it. Other times, the strike happens when the crankbait is suddenly dropped back and the predator unexpectedly finds it in its face, provoking an instinctive reaction bite.
Either way, the simple movement of the rod by the angler, (forward or backward), triggers many strikes that would not normally occur on a steady retrieve speed.
S-Curves and Boat Control
And lastly, speed can be varied by making S-curves with the boat. As mentioned earlier, if a rod is positioned on the inside curve, the crankbait attached to it will slow down. The crankbaits attached to rods on the outside of the S-curve speed up.
When a strike occurs, it is important that an angler notes which rod got the hit and at what point in the S-curve it occurred. Was the bait speeding up or slowing down? Then the trick is to duplicate that occurrence throughout the day. This can also help the angler fine tune the pace of the boat until the preferred speed is discovered.
Don’t forget, this preferred pace can change throughout the day, so if the bite fall off, constant experimentation will again be required.
Cold Water?
A final note: Fishermen will read a lot about slowing down in cold water. The assumption is that as a fish’s metabolism slows down, so should an angler’s speed. This is not necessarily so in trolling.
Remember, trollers are after “active fish”, (feeding fish), and as long as an angler puts their bait in the fish’s strike zone, they will eat it. The truth be known: an angler cannot troll crankbaits faster than a fish can swim if it chooses to eat it, (within reason, of course). Most freshwater predators are built for short bursts of speeds, even in cold water, and rarely does a targeted dinner get away.
Though there has not been a lot written about it, many pike and muskie fishermen are beginning to discover the advantages of “speed trolling”, even during the winter months. Again, they are searching for reaction strikes and desiring to cover a lot of water looking for active fish. Cold water fish, (including those in a neutral activity level), are often turned on by fast moving crankbaits.
Crankbaits
Almost any crankbait that can be cast, can be trolled, (although, as mentioned earlier, some do not track well at higher speeds). If an angler’s favorite crankbaits catch fish when cast, they are also effective when trolled behind the boat. It is important to remember, however, that these baits will generally run deeper.
This difference in depth may only be a foot or two for real shallow divers. But it can be substantially deeper for medium or deep divers. For instance, a #7 Shad Rap will run 7-9 feet when cast, but when enough line is released during trolling it will get down to 17-19 feet. An angler must now attach two depths to every lure – a casting depth, and a maximum trolling depth.
All the lure selection lessons learned while casting, (concerning body shapes, sizes, colors, etc.), apply to trolling - so we won’t spend time here. If your lake’s primary forage is cisco, shad or shiners, then common sense says use shad shaped baits. If smelt are numerous, use longer slimmer baits. Basically, match the hatch.
Interesting enough, experienced trollers often favor the elongated baits that have a round diving bill, with arched or slightly banana shaped bodies. It seems they produce an erratic, off-course, back-on-course triggering action during speed changes. Rapala’s Tail Dancer is an example.
At times, deep divers work especially well in big waves. Large swells can cause a boat’s forward motion to pause at times. Many beginning trollers mistakenly think that the hesitation is an undesirable occurrence. In actuality the speed change is equivalent to the caster’s “Stop-n-go” retrieve. It can often trigger strikes that would not come on a steady moving lure.
Extra Depth!
There may be times when a troller has discovered the maximum depth for their favorite lure and still wants it to go deeper. Without using down-riggers, there are three alternatives to achieve greater depths; adding weights, using lead core line, attaching diving-devices. We’ll explore these only briefly.
Adding Weights
Adding a ¾ or 1 ounce, (or heavier), lead weight 4 to 6 feet ahead of the bait can help get it down deeper. There are a variety of snap-on weights available that don’t require cutting and tying the line, and this makes it easy to change the weights during the course of the day. But effective results can occur when an in-line weight is used too, though this makes it important to keep checking the additional knots throughout the day.
You can also use a three-way rig. This approach requires a three-way swivel that has a leader going to a weight, (bell, round, or keel shaped), hanging down 3-4 feet. Another leader goes to the crankbait. The heavier the weight gets, the more vertical the presentation becomes, and the deeper the bait can go.
Lead Core Line
Lead-core line is bulky and will not fit existing reels, (so new equipment is necessary with this option). The line comes graduated in 10 yard sections that are color coded so an angler knows how much line is out and can calculate the depth they are reaching.
A general rule of thumb is 4-5 feet of depth to every color of leadcore let out. So if the walleye, bass, or trout are 20 feet down, an angler should run 4 or 5 colors of leadcore. This will vary, of course, depending on the bill shape of the crankbait and boat speed.
Unless an angler desires to become a dedicated troller, running lead-core is best left to Great Lake guides or charter boat captains.
In-Line Diving Devices
Diving-devices like the Dipsey Diver, Pink Lady, Jet Driver, or Deep Six are designed to carry a lure deeper. Some are designed to be adjustable – changing the angle of the planning surface to achieve different depths. Others can even be adjusted to change the tracking so as to run right or left, basically becoming an underwater planner board. With one rod set to run right, and the other left, a larger trolling area can be covered.
Once a fish strikes, the impact triggers a release pin that frees the device from its diving angle and it straightens out so there is no more resistance in the water. This allows for easy retrieval of the gear or fish. It can also be triggered by a quick snap of the rod.
When and Where
Trolling can be effective year around on lakes that don’t ice over in the winter. However, those species that build nests in very shallow water naturally make “spawning season” one of the least effective times for trolling. (But remember, not all the fish spawn at the same time, so it may still be used to target those along the weedlines or spawning flat edges who are waiting to spawn.)
During the summer months those fish that are more structure oriented will have plenty of fish hanging near the shorelines. So start shallow and move out to deeper water until a pattern is developed. For example; an angler may start with a shallow crank that runs 3 to 4 feet, then move out to use one that runs 5-6 feet, etc..
Bass – High and Low
For species like bass, it is wise to stay close to the bottom, and where the bottom structure permits it – the lure should be bouncing and ricocheting along it. That is not to say bass do not sometimes suspend in open water, but suspended bass are not as easy to locate nor catch.
If an angler does decide to target suspended bass, they should invest their initial energy and time locating schools of bait with their sonar. The bass will be near by. Only after locating forage should an angler begin trolling the immediate area. Other wise, (especially on large impoundments), an angler will end up covering miles of empty water – and being very ineffective.
In the winter, three way rigs with a 2-3 ounce weights will take an original floating Rapala down to 60 feet or more to find those smallmouth and trout that have followed the perch, shad or other baitfish into deeper depths.
But don’t be surprised to find bass rising on sunny days to suspend near the top. These will be hard to locate on the sonar, (anything shallower than 8 feet is undetectable because of the narrowness of the cone), and even harder to catch. Some accomplish this feat by almost “dead-sticking” their crankbait, moving them ever so slowly.
So Much to Learn!
Walleye can be found both near the bottom and suspended, but the bottom is where to start first. Trout can be suspended in open water at various depths, but can occasionally be found hanging near structure, especially rock humps, on the bottom.
The point is, each species will have its own unique locations to hang out in during the various seasons. The yearly patterns best suited for each species can fill books – so they are beyond the scope of this article. Needless to say, there is much to learn!
Conclusion:
Trolling is not for everyone. But it should be coming apparent by now that trolling is not as simple as dragging a lure behind the boat. Nor is it a lazy fisherman’s sport. It is extremely demanding and challenging when done right, and it is as much a “thinking person’s” technique as any other.
Because trolling is often an offshore technique, it is truly a big fish presentation. How many shoreline fishermen observed large numbers of huge females during the short spawning season, only to wonder later on “Where do those monsters go during the rest of the year?”
Unwittingly, these anglers continue to beat the banks, while the majority of large fish have moved back out to deeper water, feeding on large flats, humps, deep weedlines, or contour drops that get little pressure from shoreline fishermen. Trolling can put a crankbait right in those larger fish’s strike zone.
Trolling is also very family friendly. When going out with a knowledgeable troller, children and newcomers can experience a great time on the water without having all the casting skills and accuracy necessary when bank fishing. With several rods out, the next strike can be given to whoever is next in line to catch a fish.
Whether fish are suspended in open water or relating to structure, there is a lot to learn in order to consistently put forward precise lure-depth presentations. To place crankbaits in the strike zone, trollers must understand how the key ingredient “depth” is affected by bill size, line diameter, the amount of line released, the material the crankbait is made of, and boat speed. Boat control, seasonal patterns, contour map reading, sonar expertise, proper rods and reels, triggering methods, lure selection …well the list goes on and on. There is much to learn and be applied on the water.
Flat-line trolling is a tremendously effective method of fishing when executed properly. Anglers who limit themselves to casting techniques only, end up handicapping themselves and missing out on a great way to expand their fishing experiences. And… the chance to catch big fish! Maybe it’s time for more anglers to rediscover a fishing heritage that effectively puts fish in the boat, and brings another exciting dimension to the art of crankbait angling.
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